ShopEatDrink

One of Napa Valley’s best restaurants is Ubuntu in downtown Napa. Executive chef Jeremy Fox’s “vegetable cuisine” was a revelation. He redefined what it means to have an all vegetable-based menu, with much of the produce coming from the kitchen’s biodynamic garden fresh every day. Fox and Ubuntu received many awards and accolades. Well Fox departed earlier this year, and I think many of us were holding our collective breath about the restaurant’s future. Would it be as good with another chef? Will the vegetable menu be replaced? Will the restaurant close?

Rest assured, we can all breathe. I believe Ubuntu is now better than ever. The kitchen is now in the hands of executive chef Aaron London, who has been at Ubuntu since its opening in 2007. He’s got a stellar resume´- including stints at Daniel, Blue Hill at Stone Barns, L’Astrance and Arpege in Paris.  London is not only keeping the vegetable format, he’s elevated it.

My group for a recent Saturday lunch was made up of foodies, and many of us had dined at Ubuntu when Fox was at the helm. The first difference is the menu — gone is the little caldron of baked cauliflower and cheesy goodness. Trust me, you won’t miss it. Instead, try the gremolatta crusted zeppola stuffed with burrata. Mmmmm.

Each dish is a work of art and a creative blend of flavors and textures. To start, “chips ’n dip” – with lettuce, baby carrots, paper thin crackers made of carrot ash and a green goddess dressing for dipping it all in. Delicate flavors and interesting textures.

One of my absolute favorites is the clear cantaloupe soup with pineapple sage gazpacho, compressed melon, rat tail radishes, fork crushed avocado, aloe vera and banana mint.

The broth is poured tableside. Such delicate flavors; you get a hint of tropical from the pineapple sage and banana mint. The broth is incredibly clear; according to our server it’s strained at least twice.

I’ve had cheese grits, grits with gravy, shrimp and grits, but never with a strawberry sofrito. This creamy dish totally works. There’s also caramelized fino verde fennel, fresh ricotta and spinach. We’re told the sofrito was made over four days. London’s care and attention to detail in preparing ingredients for the dishes is mind boggling.

Our group also loved the carrot salad — slow roasted red dragon and crisp purple haze carrots with nasturtium panade, delfino cilantro and ras el hanout. This north African spice enlivens the dish, and gives it a subtle smokey quality.

The marinated ruby queen beets with aerated yogurt, beet tartare, compressed blenheim apricots and granola was a study in colors, contrasts and textures. I mean, granola and beets, who does that?

The beet salad is absolutely beautiful to look at, as are all London’s dishes. The freshness of the fruit and vegetables stand out and shines. The unusual and inventive combination of flavors are unexpected and keep your mouth guessing, but happy. All the more reason to plan to dine at Ubuntu now.

This is one great lobster roll!  Ever since I shared a lunch of a lobster roll with my grandmother in Boston, which was her last, I’ve always been on the search for a really good one.  Up until now, the rolls at various San Fran Bay Area restaurants have let me down.  Then Anchor & Hope’s roll ended the search.  Maybe because it’s on a top loaded brioche bun.  Maybe because the dressing is really light.  Nah, it’s because the chunks of lobster just shine through.  It’s so good, and so filling, I really didn’t need the Old Bay seasoned potato chips, or the coleslaw (although I recommend dipping some of the brioche roll into the slaw dressing…I’m just saying).  Yeah it’s 24 bucks, but I promise you won’t go away disappointed or hungry.  Pair with any number of crisp whites on the wine list, including an Albarino Grenache Blanc blend.

The other sandwich we tried was the Vietnamese shrimp fritter on a roll.  A&H just added it to their menu and it is a worth addition.

The restaurant space is really cool, and old auto mechanics garage.  Part of the fun is finding the place, down the alley on Minna St.

You know how it is when you really really want to like a restaurant but come away a little disappointed after a meal? That’s what happened at RN74 in San Francisco. Had a lunch meeting there; and while it’s the first time I went for a meal, instead of for wine and munchies, I was expecting a good experience. Serivce was the biggest letdown. We were a party of 3 at a 4 top. The server didn’t take away the 4th place setting until we were halfway through our entries. Plates were cleared immediately and we felt rushed. They took the butter away before we were done with it.

Now don’t get me wrong, there’s lots to like about RN74. First and foremost, it’s a great space. Industrial yet an air of an old-world French wine country restaurant. Love the train/airline schedule boards, and the prices even flip every so often for effect.

The wine list is awfully nice, but the per glass prices are steep. Good bets are the Parr Selections, from wine director Rajat Parr, like the Purisma Mtn, Santa Ynez Valley Syrah that I had ($14). The earthiness paired well with my tagliatelle with chanterelle mushrooms, cavalo nero and pancetta ($18). I was totally happy, but my dining companions had less luck, especially considering the prices. A starter of winter squash soup with juniper oil ($11) was velvety and satsifying. But a slow roasted pork sandwich ($14) was a big cold mound of meat and not that appetizing. A little better, the open face sandwich of beef brisket with caramelized onions ($19). The pommes frites were billed as horseradish fries but I couldn’t find that flavor at all. Points for presentation of all dishes. But especially for the money, I think I’ll just go for the wine from now on.