Archive

Archive for June, 2010

SHOP – From Capri, custom-made sandals

June 30th, 2010 1 comment

wpid-IMG_1453-2010-06-30-20-45.jpg
I was on an Italian holiday, roaming the streets of Positano, when I happened across a storefront selling custom-made sandals. You could choose the color of the leather straps, the style — such as thongs, or toe rings, and the sole, whether it’s flat, a wedge or a heel.

wpid-IMG_9538-2010-06-30-20-451.jpg
Several hundred feet later, there’s another custom sandal shop, with more brightly colored leather straps, and lots and lots of crystals adorning the sandals. My friend and I were trying on sandals to see what looked best on our feet, and got yelled at by the wpid-download7-2010-06-30-20-45.jpeg

cobbler – he was impatient and wanted us to make a quick decision. We left in a huff, vowing never to buy from him.

We searched Positano and Capri for other sandals, but his were the best. I went back the next day, swallowed my pride, and bought a gorgeous pair of pink sandals, with major bling.

Ever since, I’ve dreamed of opening my own custom sandal business. But in the meantime, I made a discovery that lets me fulfill my sandal cravings. I was in New York City a few weeks ago, walking along 5th Avenue, and something in the front window of Henri Bendel stopped me in my tracks. There was a live cobbler making custom sandals! wpid-IMG_9536-2010-06-30-20-451.jpgwpid-IMG_9546-2010-06-30-20-451.jpgwpid-IMG_9540-2010-06-30-20-451.jpgwpid-IMG_9542-2010-06-30-20-45.jpg

Turns out Bendel partnered up with Tuccia Di Capri to offer customized sandals.

If you can’t get to the NYC Bendels, you can order your sandals online. Tuccia di Capri gives you instructions on how to measure your feet. This is now my second pair of custom sandals, and I have to tell you, there’s nothing better than the fit of a shoe made for your feet. They are so comfortable, and they don’t rub at all.

wpid-download8-2010-06-30-20-45.jpeg

If you know of any other custom sandal makers, please do share!

EAT – Ubuntu, better than ever

June 30th, 2010 No comments

wpid-IMG_9575-2010-06-30-13-32.jpg

One of Napa Valley’s best restaurants is Ubuntu in downtown Napa. Executive chef Jeremy Fox’s “vegetable cuisine” was a revelation. He redefined what it means to have an all vegetable-based menu, with much of the produce coming from the kitchen’s biodynamic garden fresh every day. Fox and Ubuntu received many awards and accolades. Well Fox departed earlier this year, and I think many of us were holding our collective breath about the restaurant’s future. Would it be as good with another chef? Will the vegetable menu be replaced? Will the restaurant close?

Rest assured, we can all breathe. I believe Ubuntu is now better than ever. The kitchen is now in the hands of executive chef Aaron London, who has been at Ubuntu since its opening in 2007. He’s got a stellar resume´- including stints at Daniel, Blue Hill at Stone Barns, L’Astrance and Arpege in Paris.  London is not only keeping the vegetable format, he’s elevated it.

My group for a recent Saturday lunch was made up of foodies, and many of us had dined at Ubuntu when Fox was at the helm. The first difference is the menu — gone is the little caldron of baked cauliflower and cheesy goodness. Trust me, you won’t miss it. Instead, try the gremolatta crusted zeppola stuffed with burrata. Mmmmm.

Each dish is a work of art and a creative blend of flavors and textures. To start, “chips ’n dip” – with lettuce, baby carrots, paper thin crackers made of carrot ash and a green goddess dressing for dipping it all in. Delicate flavors and interesting textures.
wpid-IMG_9563-2010-06-30-13-32.jpg

One of my absolute favorites is the clear cantaloupe soup with pineapple sage gazpacho, compressed melon, rat tail radishes, fork crushed avocado, aloe vera and banana mint.

The broth is poured tableside. Such delicate flavors; you get a hint of tropical from the pineapple sage and banana mint. The broth is incredibly clear; according to our server it’s strained at least twice.

I’ve had cheese grits, grits with gravy, shrimp and grits, but never with a strawberry sofrito. This creamy dish totally works. There’s also caramelized fino verde fennel, fresh ricotta and spinach. We’re told the sofrito was made over four days. London’s care and attention to detail in preparing ingredients for the dishes is mind boggling.
wpid-IMG_9572-2010-06-30-13-32.jpg

Our group also loved the carrot salad — slow roasted red dragon and crisp purple haze carrots with nasturtium panade, delfino cilantro and ras el hanout. This north African spice enlivens the dish, and gives it a subtle smokey quality.
wpid-IMG_9569-2010-06-30-13-32.jpgwpid-IMG_9570-2010-06-30-13-32.jpg

The marinated ruby queen beets with aerated yogurt, beet tartare, compressed blenheim apricots and granola was a study in colors, contrasts and textures. I mean, granola and beets, who does that?
wpid-IMG_9568-2010-06-30-13-32.jpg

The beet salad is absolutely beautiful to look at, as are all London’s dishes. The freshness of the fruit and vegetables stand out and shines. The unusual and inventive combination of flavors are unexpected and keep your mouth guessing, but happy. All the more reason to plan to dine at Ubuntu now.

DRINK – Get out of the tasting room for a killer view

June 29th, 2010 1 comment

wpid-IMG_9554-2010-06-29-11-27.jpg
It’s not enough for a winery to have a tasting room these days. They’ve got to offer an “experience” and make it unique. The folks at Kunde Family Estate understand this.  The winery is a 100% estate winery, on 1850 acres, with 700 acres of it planted to vines. It’s a beautiful property. If you saw Bottleshock, much of the movie was filmed at Kunde. The boxing ring is still there.

Sure, Kunde has a tasting room, and you can stand at the bar, or sign up for a seated reserve tasting. But the best way to experience Kunde is to get out of the tasting room for one of the best views of Sonoma wine country.

Fourth generation family winegrower Jeff Kunde’s always thinking of what’s next. I met up with him at the winery to see his latest project, the Mountain Top Tasting. It was Jeff’s idea to create this, by clearing out dense brush on a spot that offers spectacular views. We drive through the vineyards while going up higher and higher, until we’re there, at about 1400 ft in the Mayacamas Mountains. You pass through a rustic gate, walk down a path, and then suddenly, there’s a 180-degree view of the Sonoma Valley. Breathtaking? It’s beyond. Take a moment to enjoy the view:

Jeff says that seeing the valley this way helps his visitors get a real lay of the land. As you taste several wines here you can also see the particular vineyard where the grapes were grown. Kunde is known for Zinfandel, and you see the 100+ year old vines down below you.
wpid-IMG_9562-2010-06-29-11-27.jpg
You could spend all day here, and Jeff says sometimes he has a hard time getting visitors to leave. I understand. I could sit there all day with a glass of Zin and be very very happy.

You’ll need a reservation for the Mountain Top tasting, which for now is offered on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. The cost is $25 per person, which I have to say, is very reasonable.

But that’s not all. Kunde also offers two more out-of-the-tasting room experiences: an Eco-Hike and a Hike & Taste in the Vineyards.  Many of the Eco-Hikes, which are about 3 miles long through the Kunde ranch and vineyards (about 4 hours) are also Dog Hikes. Kunde has got to be the most dog-friendly winery around – they’ve got plenty of doggie snacks and a water bar for the dogs (of course there’s lunch and water for the dog walkers and owners, with a little wine tasting). Plus, a portion of the hike tour fee is donated to Canine Companions and the Sonoma County Humane Society. Another bonus – Jeff Kunde leads many of the Eco- and Dog Hikes. How many winery owners do you know who spend four hours with visitors? Pretty cool.

EAT – NYC Pizza

June 29th, 2010 No comments

wpid-815793877m-2010-06-23-07-42.jpg
If you don’t know that pizza is one of the hottest trends in the food world, then where have you been? In New York City, a place hardly lacking for good pizza pies, several artisan pizzerias recently opened. During my trip there last week, my goal was to try a slice at each. On my list: Motorino, Keste´, Co. and Pulino.

First up, Keste´ Pizza & Vino. It’s in a cramped and narrow space on Bleecker Street in the West Village. No reservations; put your name in and wait. On a Monday night, it was only 10 minutes. You are practically sitting in your neighbor’s lap — tables are crammed in every nook and cranny. No matter, the aroma of pizza baking is more than enough to make it worth your while to stay.
wpid-Keste1-2010-06-23-07-42.jpegwpid-keste3-2010-06-23-07-42.jpegwpid-keste9-2010-06-23-07-42.jpegwpid-keste10-2010-06-23-07-42.jpeg

You get Neapolitan-style pizzas here. In fact, Keste´ is the US headquarters for the Associazione Pizzaiuoli Napoletani, the group that sets standards for what “true” Neapolitan pizza is, and also certifies pizzaiolos (pizza makers).

From the menu of 20+ pizzas, we chose the classic Margherita and the Proscuitto e Arugola. Pies are cut into 4 wedges, enough for 2 people to share. The Margherita was FANTASTIC. The crust is little crisp and chewy. The flavors were bold yet familiar: creamy mozzarella, sweet tomato sauce. This pizza ranks up there with what I think is the best pizza in the world, at Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix. The proscuitto pizza was no slouch though, again the same chewy crust and just the right balance of salty and sweet flavors. Keste´ was my favorite of the NYC pizzerias. A very simple wine list has offerings of house white,
rose´or red, served in carafes.

wpid-keste6-2010-06-23-07-42.jpegwpid-keste7-2010-06-23-07-42.jpegwpid-keste8-2010-06-23-07-42.jpeg

Next, Pulino. This is a Keith McNally restaurant, the same guy who brought us Balthazar and Pastis. Pulino’s interior will remind you of Balthazar and Pastis. It’s rustic and simple, just like the food. Pizza’s the main attraction here, as is the chef, Nate Appleman, a recent transplant from San Francisco. He was part of the A16 team, one of the San Francisco’s best Italian restaurants.

wpid-508532344m-2010-06-23-07-42.jpgwpid-499259248m-2010-06-23-07-42.jpgwpid-591701120m-2010-06-23-07-42.jpgwpid-472804731m-2010-06-23-07-42.jpgwpid-659703841m-2010-06-23-07-42.jpgwpid-912424105m-2010-06-23-07-42.jpgwpid-739413438m-2010-06-23-07-42.jpgwpid-826856534m-2010-06-23-07-42.jpg

An insalate verde is a good start. Loved the dressing, made with red wine vinegar and creme fraiche.  I can tell you that Pulino’s pizza, at least the one I had, bested A16’s efforts. I had the Pesto pizze,with basil and arugula pesto, mozzarella, pecorino, pinenuts and stracchino Here the crust is paper thin and crisp, allowing the toppings to shine. The stracchino was rich and gooey, a nice contrast to the crunch of the crust.

Last is Co., which is in Chelsea. Very minimalistic interior.

wpid-Copizza4-2010-06-23-07-42.jpeg

This pizzeria was opened by Sullivan Street Bakery owner and baker, Jim Lahey. He’s known for his no-knead dough technique. At Co. the crust isn’t too thin or too thick — I’d say it is between the super thin Pulino crust and Keste’s chewy crust. Of the three pizzas, Co.’s had the proper amount of blistering and char. For me, what makes the pizza here are the toppings. I had the Peas & Proscuitto pie, with peas, shredded proscuitto, bechamel, mozzarella, parmesan and pea shoots. I’d never had peas or pea shoots on a pizza, but it really works! I paired it with a Shinas Estate “The Innocent” Viognier, a match that was fresh and luscious. Co. has the best wine list of the three pizzerias.

wpid-Copizza2-2010-06-23-07-42.jpegwpid-Copizza3-2010-06-23-07-42.jpegwpid-Copizza1-2010-06-23-07-42.jpeg

I never did make it to Motorino. Yet another Neapolitan-style pizzeria, Motorino has two locations, in Brooklyn and in the East Village. According to New York Times food critic Sam Sifton, it’s the best pizza in the city. My next trip to NYC, I’m going straight to Motorino from the plane. We’ll see then if it’s better than Keste’s.

Of course, while all of these pizzas are excellent, none of them are better than any of the pies coming out of Chris Bianco’s pizza oven at Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix. It’s worth a quick round trip flight from San Francisco just to eat one of his amazing pizzas. So far, Keste´ is the only pizzeria I’ve found that even comes close.

Of course, there’s always Ray’s – big slices, stringy cheese, mmmm. Perhaps it is the quintessential New York pizza.

DRINK – Why I’m not at the Wine Bloggers’ Conference

June 26th, 2010 No comments

Everything comes down to choices and priorities. That’s why I’m not attending the 2010 Wine Bloggers’ Conference (WBC) in Walla Walla, Washington this weekend. The reason is perfectly clear: Wine Women & Shoes is happening in Napa, and there was no way to attend both. Yes, shoes win out over wine. In fact, I always compare what something costs to how many pairs of shoes I could buy. An $800 bottle of Screaming Eagle? That’s at least two or three pairs of shoes. Personally I’d rather have the shoes. Oh don’t get me wrong, I love wine and spend way too much money on it as it is. But shoes you can wear more than once, and perhaps even for years. Wine is a one time deal. Once you pop the cork, it’s gone. Anyway, that’s my reasoning. Anything to justify buying yet another pair.

No doubt I’ll be following the happenings and pronouncements from WBC. I’m hoping someone will finally reveal the secret to making loads of money by blogging. That would make the conference worth attending.

I’ll post about WW&S, which takes place at Hall Winery in St. Helena on Sunday, June 27. I’m going with a group of friends; our numbers keep expanding year after year. This is year four!

SHOP – Riedel Sample Sale

June 23rd, 2010 No comments

wpid-riedel16-2010-06-23-07-08.jpeg

Sample sales are legendary, at least in the fashion world. The venerable wine glass company, Riedel, jumped into the fray with its first sample sale ever in New York City. I had the good fortune of being in NYC on sale day. Chelsea Market was the location, and I arrived a little more than 30 minutes early, and was 5th in line. By the time the doors opened, more than 50 people had cued up.

The calm before the storm:
wpid-riedel14-2010-06-23-07-08.jpegwpid-riedel15-2010-06-23-07-08.jpeg

What we found – boxes and boxes of glassware and decanters. If you were looking for the Riedel Amadeo decanter, this was the place to get a deal. Most prices at up to 70% off retail.

Also saw a lot of “tasting sets” with varietal specific glasses. I snapped up O Chardonnay glasses and tubes of the O Cabernet/Merlot glasses. I lost out on the last box of champagne flutes. There were also a lot of the Vinum and the Tyrol series of glasses. I calculated most of the glasses going for less than $10 per stem.
wpid-riedel10-2010-06-23-07-08.jpegwpid-riedel12-2010-06-23-07-08.jpegwpid-riedel13-2010-06-23-07-08.jpegwpid-riedel3-2010-06-23-07-08.jpegwpid-riedel9-2010-06-23-07-08.jpeg

Within the first hour a lot of the merchandise had already been cleaned out (they did replenish stock daily). The line to check out was growing and growing. The crowd, mostly 20 to 40 somethings. Would have been nice to have carts or baskets but instead had to juggle all the boxes of glassware. At one point we heard the crash of glass breaking.  The four-day sale attracted about 10,000 people; a set of six Vinum Cab glasses and decanter were the most popular item ($106.50).  The O series glasses (stemless) just about sold out too, and I certainly contributed to that!

wpid-riedel1-2010-06-23-07-08.jpegwpid-riedel8-2010-06-23-07-08.jpeg

This sample sale was organized by The Prive´, and they hold many high end sample sales. I’m told they plan to hold a second Riedel sample sale in NYC this fall.  To find out about this and future sales, sign up at their website: https://shop.theprive.com/ I’ll also post info as I get it here.

DRINK EAT – Auction Napa Valley 2010

June 8th, 2010 No comments

wpid-shafer3700-2010-06-8-09-40.jpeg

Recession worries seemed to fade as wine lovers opened their wallets and raised paddles bidding up the prices at the 30th Auction Napa Valley, held over this past weekend. There was lots of good food and great wine flowing throughout the event. I went to the Taste Napa Valley and Barrel Auction on Friday, at Rubicon Estates. I love this annual event, and it’s a great one to go to even if you don’t make it to the live auction on Saturday. Dark skies and cool temps threatened rain, but it held off.

wpid-auctionextrubicon-2010-06-8-09-40.jpeg

At Taste Napa Valley, wineries pour whites and rose´and many of Napa’s top restaurants dished out bites.

wpid-chickpeafries-2010-06-8-09-40.jpeg

You could nosh on anything from chickpea fries to pulled pork sliders from BarBersQ and watermelon sorbet with chocolate chips (for seeds!), topped with fleur de sel. Martini House served up a creamy mushroom soup that was an inspired pairing with the Kongsgaard “The Judge” Chardonnay. Check out this incredible paella, from Zuzu in Napa.

wpid-paella-2010-06-8-09-40.jpegwpid-paella2-2010-06-8-09-40.jpeg

What I really noticed was that there were many more wineries pouring Rose´ than in past years. No complaints here, I love Rose´especially this time of year. Some of the best I tasted were from Entre Nous, (a Cab rose´) where Philippe Melka is the winemaker, and Louis M. Martini, also a Rose´of Cab.
wpid-entrenous-2010-06-8-09-40.jpegwpid-martinirose-2010-06-8-09-40.jpeg
wpid-misueno-2010-06-8-09-40.jpegwpid-mumm-2010-06-8-09-40.jpeg

The real excitement was inside the caves at Rubicon, where the live barrel auction was taking place. As you can see, it was jammed-packed, as people went from barrel to barrel, sampling and bidding.
wpid-barrelauction2-2010-06-8-09-40.jpegwpid-barrelauction4-2010-06-8-09-40.jpegwpid-barrelauction3-2010-06-8-09-40.jpegwpid-roybarrelauction-2010-06-8-09-40.jpegwpid-blackbirdbarrelauction-2010-06-8-09-40.jpeg

Opening bids on the barrel lots started at $175 per case with the minimum increments of $50. In about 15 minutes time, I saw the Shafer Vineyards lot go from $5700 to $6000 (and yes, that’s for one case).
wpid-shaferchangebid-2010-06-8-09-40.jpegUpdating the Shafer bids.wpid-shafer6000-2010-06-8-09-40.jpegwpid-shafer6000cu-2010-06-8-09-40.jpeg

If you think that’s a lot, the final bid on the Shafer lot, the 2008 Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon, went for $58,650. Amazing! The second highest bid was $37,700 for the Spottswoode Estate lot, a St. Helena Cab.

At the end of the weekend, when all was said and done, more than $8.5 million was raised, with $1 million coming from the barrel auction alone. All proceeds benefit
health, youth services and housing non-profits in Napa County.

wpid-barrelauction1-2010-06-8-09-40.jpeg